It has been a while, but since my last post the car has been sandblasted and work started on the body.
Car transported
As I am finished with largely removing of all the tectyl and sanding down the car (including doors, trunk and hood lid) so time to take it to the bodyshop.
Doors, trunk and hood lid sanded down to bare metal.
Door skin of both doors are pretty much banged up, so I got some NOS door panel skins.
I also found 2 new panels to repair the rust in the rear fender in front of the rear wheels.
As I said in a previous post, the upper panel on the nose is also damaged so I got a good 2nd hand replacement part.
Furthermore there are 2 more damages which will probably need new panels, so I’m still looking replacement panels for this. Damage on the LH FWD side and RH fender:
The floorpanels where the last parts where I had to remove some tectyl, so from now on no more scraping.
Put the car on a trailer
And dropped it off at the bodyshop.
Doors
Damages found below layers of filler
Sanding the car is making progress, but found damages below the filler.
On the nose in the area below the emblem buckled and dented, pretty bad so I got an replacement part
The right side
So mostly banged up metal, no rust. There is some rust at the bottom corner of the aft fenders in front of the rear wheels so this will probably mean some cutting and replacing panels.
And above the rear wheels
Damages at the right front fender
A poorly repaired hole in the door sill
Sanding away 6 layers of paint
More surprises
Damage on the the front of the fender
Some damage at the rear upper wing
The rear looks pretty OK, just some minor dents
All in all I’m feeling not so lucky. On the other hand, it’s a 48 year old car so it had to have some hidden damages. As I said most damages do not have rust, but they have to be attended to.
I came across this advertisement of Volvo, pretty funny advertising by Volvo.
Sanding
While sanding down the car the dust gives a nice effect with the sunlight.
Recently the guy who is going to do the sheet metal work and welding came by to look the car overr. I will sand down the car to bare metal as much as possible and in a couple of weeks I will bring the car over to him. First thing then is sand blasting andthen he he will start with the repair off all the bad spots and do some modifications. Unfortunately he allready could see some bad rusty spots of which I thought would be not much of a problem, so there will be some major cutting and welding.
Sanding down the filler creates a lot of dust, and discoveries of more hidden damages.
Also did some interior work. I glued the two patches of leather (which I painted) on the second seat bottom frame, quite a time consuming job. Now wait for the glue to dry and I can put the seats completely back together. Possibly I will paint another layer of black leatherpaint on the patches, because they got damaged during the gluing.
Colours
So I´ve decided the color of the car will be red. Volvo used two kinds or red color on 1800´s, color code #70 on early P1800´s of 1961 – 1962 and code #46 on 1800’s from 1963 until 1973. As I would like to keep things fairly original, I should use #46 as this is the red which was used on a 1967 1800S.
For example, a car painted in #70 (above) and #46 (below):

Lots of info about the Volvo colors can be read at: http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/general/volvo-color-codes/.
Last moth I’ve did some work on the interior and as I decided the color of the car will be red, I am going with the red-black exterior-interior combination, like this:
http://volvo1800pictures.com/main/main_gallery_1800S_67_php.php
So, red exterior, black seats and panels and red carpet. Searching for a nice 2nd hand, not rotten away black 1800s interior would not going to be an easy find. Impossible I found out later on. I also checked out of curiosity what it would cost if you would buy it all new, this would be around €2500. Not an option for my financial situation. So, after some searching on the net I found some people who painted their seats with leatherpaint with pretty good results and a good price – quality. So I painted the interior black:
First some repairs and clean everything thoroughly. My seats are in good condition so no heavy tears or worn out cushions, perfect to be painted.
Then the paint. It dries pretty quickly.
The seat support and brackets are powedercoated and all nuts, bolts and seat rails are nickle-plated so all shiny. I’m assembling the seats now.
I had to tap the threads of the 5/16 nuts in the seat bottom base, which were accidentally powdercoated, and gluing the covers on the bum frame.
Next job will be to paint the interior panels, but first I have to replace the wooden panels with some waterproof ones and then I can paint the panels.
Also the dashboard is finished. I was a bit in doubt if I would repad the whole thing, but this was not necessary. There where only 2 small cracks which I repaired (stop-drilled, filled up and painted) so I decided not to repad it. A repaired and painted fresh almost new dash (the holes will be covered by the radio):
And cleaned up the rear axle and applied the first three layers of paint (1st & 2nd RX5, 3rd 50% RX5 – 50% RX10, next layer 5% RX5 – 95% RX10):
And cleaning out the interior radiator, lots of sludge came out. The thing looks overall very good, possibly I’ll send it to a radiator shop for a check up.
And after some polishing (still have to finish it)
Also all the bolts, nuts and brackets are re-plated. I made pictures of all assemblies previously so now sorting it all.
Parts painted
Picked up some powder-coated parts, all looks really nice. I can almost start with piecing back together the front and rear suspension. I still need to clean up and send off all the bolts, nuts and rings, for sinc plating. Also ordered some PU bushings for the suspension and I’m prepping to paint the rear axle.
And again dropped off some other of the last parts which also need to be painted.
Subframe repaired
We repaired the subframe so it is ready for powder coating.
Cut out the damaged top parts of the shock towers
The welds of the lower braces are still ok, no repairing required.
Now that the subframe is ready I dropped off all the parts in need of new paint at the powdercoater (Waayenberg Coatings). Subframe will be coated RAL7040, pulley and cooling fan RAL1004 and the rest just normal black.
I also started sanding down the car, hopefully the painter will be coming over soon so we can discuss a plan of action.
Fuel tank looking good
The fuel tank cleaned up and looking good. Just needs new paint. Even the internals look very good, no rust. I had the intention to re-seal the inside of the fuel tank, but it is so clean that it won’t be necessary.
The fuel tank sender is looking less good. Resistance is jumping around when moving the float and does not de- or increase fluently (which explains the bouncing around of the fuel gauge). The resistance has to be in between 5-10 Ohm (empty) and 180-205 Ohm (full). Think I’m just going to put a new one in, they are not that expensive.
Classic Volvo exhibition in Rosmalen, the Netherlands
We went to the Volvo Beurs in Rosmalen, so nice to see some beautiful Volvo’s at this exhibition. Especially the P1800 / S / E / ES section, it was good for motivation to see some 1800’s in driving condition. Also, the parking lot was divided into sections, you had to park by type and parking was free if you’d have a Volvo!
Nice!
Looks exactly like my old Turbo!































































































































































