Carbs finished

I picked up a second batch of zinc plated parts so I could finally finish the SU’s. It was quite the work to put the linkages back together again, amazingly clever system. I reccon they will need some serious tweaking to get the engine properly running. As said, I also have the Weber so if it won’t run I can use these.

Float bowl caps modified with overflow pipes
Aprox €1500 on carbs…

SU HS6 conversion?

I found a set of SU carbs as I am planning to convert back to the double SU setup instead of the Weber 38. I’ve read that a B20 with double SU works best with a K or even better a TT3 type camshaft. I don’t know what type my engine has (finding out would mean taking the head off) so this could be a bit of a guess, but I can always go back to the Weber. It should have a C type installed and it should be a working setup. I’m also aware this is a 2-bolt type and a 3-bolt type would be better.

Offcourse the setup is not completely original as the engine is supposed to be a B18. The B18 got replaced a long time ago probably back in the States by a B20 with the bigger valves with a little more power. So unfortunately no matching numbers for the engine, but the M40 transmission is. Anyway, the double SU will looks much better.

A set of SU’s in dire need of a rebuild, though throttle plate shafts and bushings are really good and have no play whatsover. I will be replacing the floats, float needles, main jets and all gaskets. Float bowl tops will be modified so if a bowl will overflow fuel will not spill on the exhaust. All metal parts will be replated. I will also need a new pair of air filters as these only fit in combination with the LPG mixing pieces and I wont’t be using them.
Took it all apart, these parts will be sent off to be replated yellow and silver/blue.
Lightly glassbead blasted and cleaned
Ultrasonic parts cleaner
Sure looks very nice
Polished the pots
I hope it will run as good as it looks with the SU’s. Now waiting for the plating to be done and then they can be put back together again.

Progress on the Engine, Weber 38 & Transmission

Some small items still to do, but almost finished. Distributor painted and new seal and upgraded with a hot spark, new leads, cap and new spark plugs, new fuel pump, rear and front crank seals replaced, new waterpump and seals, new freeze plugs, thermostat, engine mount bushings, oil filter, valve cover seal. Also checked oil pump sprocket play and bypass spring length which are good. Sand blasted inlet and exhaust manifolds and painted the latter. Ordered wrong gasket for a B18, mine is a B20 so I need a different one. And also replaced some manifold studs. The engine was in good shape, no weird noises, good healthy compression and leakdown tests and no oil usage so left the engine internals as is.

Hot spark
Modified? Seems there is a protection ring which is not standard.

Now busy with the Weber (38 DGMS), cleaned it with the ultrasonic cleaner, checked everything and rebuild. Still a bit in doubt, but possibly I’m going to switch back to the dual SU HS6 set-up. If that is no good I can always switch back to the Weber.


And also got the transmission, M41 + OD, on the workbench for a good cleanup, new oil and some gaskets. It was overhauled when it was with the previous owner, so I hope this will be a quick and easy job. This is the original transmission as delivered from the factory. Engine has been replaced by a B20 so unfortunately no complete matching numbers.

No visible damages.
Clean! Sandblasted the bellhousing.
Not sure how oil got in here, seems there is a sort of vent hole from where the oil came from.

Rear axle rebuild

Also still busy with the diff. It has been painted and many parts zinc plated. I lost most of the pictures I made when disassembling so it takes some time to figure out how it needs to go back together again.

The LH side has new bearings and seals and the backplate is back on. I am waiting on some more new parts, bearing kit for the RH side and new brake shoes. I also have new pinion seal, brake drums and one new hub (I destroyed a hub and drum during a failed attempt to remove them with the wrong puller).

When the other bearing kit is in I need to figure out how to shim the axles.