The pistons where stuck in the calipers, but after a little pursuation I got them out. They did not came out with air pressure from my compressor, so tap them further in, put air pressure on it, tap them back in etc etc. After a while a loud bang and out they came one by one.
Then clean it all up to prep for painting. The bolts, clips, pistons and brake pad pins will go with the second batch to be zinc plated. The seals are all pretty much shot, so I need to find new ones.
Two years since my last update, about time for a new one. Progress on the car is still being made, altough very slowly. Lots of bodywork was neccessary because of some rust and the many old poorly repaired damages covered under fat layers of bondo, probably done in the US. They all where redone in a proper way. Now the body is nearly finished and I hope I can drop it off at a paint shop within a few months.
I’m also busy rebuilding the front suspension and the rear suspension will be next. This so the car can get back on its wheels asap after painting.
As I am finished with removing of all the tectyl and sanding down the car (including doors, trunk and hood lid) it was time to bring it to the guys who will sandblast the car and repair the rust and old badly done repairs which where buried below layers of filler.
So pulled it out of my garage for the last time for transport. Much of the car has been sanded down to bare metal. As I said, I found some rust and old bad damage repairs (probably done in bondo-USA..) below the layers of paint and filler, which need attention.
Doors, trunk and hood lid sanded down to bare metal.
Door skin of both doors are pretty much banged up, so I got some NOS door panel skins for a very good price from http://www.volvokv.nl.
I also found 2 new panels to repair the rust in the rear fender in front of the rear wheels, both sided. Bought at www.vp-autoparts.com.
As I said in a previous post, the upper panel on the nose is also damaged so I got a good 2nd hand replacement part.
Furthermore there are 2 more damages which will probably need new panels, so I’m still looking replacement panels for this. Damage on the LH FWD side and RH fender:
The floorpanels where the last parts where I had to remove some tectyl, so from now on no more scraping ;).
Picked up a trailer (had to remove the security first..)
Pulling it on the deck
Tied it down
Tight fit, luckily I measured the width of the trailer and my driveway before 😉
And dropped it off at the bodywork garage. It was a bit strange to leave it behind, but it’s near my folks home so I will take a look often to see the progress. Well see how it goes and if the guys are going to find more rusty stuff or old damages or something like that. Ofcourse I hope not, but you never know with a car of 50 years old.
I picked up a restoration stand today. It looks sturdy enough. It’s missing a long steel tube to connect the two curved tubes, so I’ll have to find something which will fit.
Lots of space in the 940 😉
I’m finished with scraping of the interior! But man, what a bitch this coating on the seams. And at 2 or 3 places I found a little bit of rust behind the coating, again some ticking time bombs, I hate bombs :(.
I’ll see if maybe it’s better to use something else to cover the seams again when the car is sand blasted.
But with the help of a small blowtorch (watch out of not putting too much heat in the metal of the car!) and again, some patience, I got it almost all removed from the interior (trunk, engine bay and interior), I hope it’s good enough for the sand blasting guys. Next is the lower side of the old diva! :). The lower side is really going to be a LOT of work. Maybe I can trick some friends with a case of beer and a BBQ to help me a day or so ;). When the car is painted again I’m not going to use Tectyl again, I want to use something like Dinitrol. This because dinitrol is transparent and this way you can see if there are rusty spots forming over time. With Tectyl you cannot see this. I guess Dinitrol is not as tough as Tectyl, so it provides less protection, but at least you can still see the metal. But these are all far, far away future plans :).
Cleaned up the inside.
A strange weld at the front. I guess I’m gonna find some more repairs at the lower side of the car, but it would be strange if I wouldn’t find any repairs on a 47 year old car.
I’m beginning to know all of the car this way ;).
Everything is removed from the interior, so finally the real fun work can begin! :(. Removing all the glue, adhesives, sealant, isolation panels, dirt etc etc. Especially the sealant at the seams is a bitch. But working with plastic scrapers, a fire torch and lots of patience does the job. The interior is almost done, just some more sealant at the seams has to be removed.
When the interior is clean, I can start with the underside of the car. This will take the most work because underneath the car is completely covered in a 1/2 cm thick layer of tectyl.. For this work I can borrow some sort of restoration stand, so I can put he car on its side to work on the lower side of the car, kinda like as in the image below. It is fitted on the wheel hubs, so the frond and aft suspensions cannot be removed from the car.
This would even be better, but then it would not fit in my garage:
And I also want to build something like this, a sort of transportation stand:
I would like to make something like that, but the frame has to support the car at the jack points, because the front and aft wheel suspensions will remain installed (because of the restoration stand I will use fits on the wheel hubs) untill the car will go to the shop for sand blasting.
Or I could just do it without a restoration stand and do it like this.. 😉
These are the bad spots in the metal of the car which I have found until now. It could be worse, but the car does needs some repairs. As I cannot repair it myself, I have to find someone or a shop who can do the job.
Rust at the RH aft light housing.
FWD winscreen.
FWD windscreen RH lower corner.
FWD windscreen LH lower corner.
LH headlight housing, inside the front fender. The RH side is a bit the same, beginning rust.
Aft windscreen RH lower corner.
Beginning rust behind AFT fender covers.
So it needs to be scratched. I started (as a sort of trial to see how though the undercoating is) with removing some coating at the inside of the RH front fender. The car had been treated with a coating on the under- and inside of the car somewhere in the early ’00’s. This means lots of extra work all around the car… 
