A rebuild heater, painted, new packings and seals, core repaired and cleaned and the motor tested and cleaned.
While sanding down the car the dust gives a nice effect with the sunlight, I feel the Saint in my presence (and a big fat layer of dust everywhere) ;).
Recently the guy who is going to do the sheet metal work and welding came over and we made a plan of action. I will sand down the car to bare metal as much as possible and in a couple of weeks I will bring the car over to him. First thing then is sand blasting the car inside out and after that he he will start with the repair off all the bad spots and do some modifications. When that has finished, the car will go to the paint shop. Unfortunately he could see some bad rusty spots of which I thought would be not much of a problem, so there will be some major cutting and welding. But hey, that’s the whole idea of this resto ;).
Sanding down the filler is a pain in the ass, it takes pretty much effort to sand it away until metal will show. At the right front fender I found some damages buried below a thick layer of filler, maybe a new panel is needed here.
And I glued the two patches of leather (which I painted) on the second seat bottom frame, quite a time consuming job. Now wait a while for the glue to dry and I can put the seats completely back together. Possibly I will paint another layer of black leatherpaint on the patches, because they got damaged a bit during the gluing.
Time has come for another update. So I’ve come to the conclusion that this restoration thing is going awesomely slow if you would compare it to this high speed maniacal world where everything needs to be done by yesterday. I always thought that when I would do a restoration, I could do it way more faster than all these suckers who are working on a car for five years or so ;). But, I’m now somewhere halfway the restoration (I think!) and it has cost me already 1,5 years to get this far so I guess am as slow as everyone else :D. With your nose on the facts as mr. van Gaal would say. But, on the bright side, I’m still having fun with this restoration (set aside some medium mental breakdowns when stuff does not want to go the way I want it to go, but these ‘incidents’ do not tend to last very long luckily).
All in all I’m am doing my best and although I’m progressing not very fast, I work at a steady pace, almost everyday doing something. And I finally found someone who can weld and do sheetmetalwork! And this guy also knows a good painter, so good things. I’ve been searching for more than 6 months so I am pretty excited that the most important work finally can start. In something like a month we will bring the car to this guy’s workshop so he can start working on the car (when he is finished with a Jaguar and a Porsche, nice guys always finish last 😉 ).
So I´ve decided the color of the car will be red. It´s maybe not the best color for such a classic car, as grey, green or white would fit the car better I guess, but red is just such a nice color IMHO. Volvo used two kinds or red color on 1800´s, color code #70 on early P1800´s of 1961 – 1962 and code #46 on 1800’s from 1963 until 1973. As I would like to keep things fairly original, I should use #46 as this is the red which was used on a 1967 1800S, but I’m not completely sure which I like more. So I need to think about that.
For example, a car painted in #70 (above) and #46 (below):
As you can see it is a bit difficult to show the correct color on a picture on a computer. I think the early #70 is a bit more ‘firetruck red’ than the #46, but I’m not sure. Best would be if I could see the color in real life. But even then I guess you would not be certain if it would be the correct color Volvo used as most cars have had a respray in their years. Lots of info about the Volvo colors can be read at: http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/general/volvo-color-codes/. A great website with lots of Volvo info, check it out!
Last moth I’ve did some work on the interior and as I decided the color of the car will be red, I am going with the red-black exterior-interior combination, like this:
So, red exterior, black seats and panels and red carpet. The coulor combination I like the most! Searching for a nice 2nd hand, not rotten away black 1800s interior would not going to be an easy find. Impossible I found out later on. I also checked out of curiosity what it would cost if you would buy it all new, this would be around €2500. Not an option for my financial situation, to put it mildly ;). So, after some searching on the net I found some people who painted their seats with leatherpaint with pretty good results and a good price – quality. So I painted the interior black for approximately €40:
I guess he likes brown
First some repairs and clean everything thoroughly. My seats are in good condition so no heavy tears or worn out cushions, perfect to be painted.
Then the paint. It dries pretty quickly.
The seat support and brackets are powedercoated and all nuts, bolts and seat rails are nickle-plated so all shiny new now. I’m assembling the seats as we speak. Well, not now as I am typing these words, but previously ehh, well, you know what I mean.
I had to tap the threads of the 5/16 nuts in the seat bottom base, which were accidentally powdercoated, and gluing the covers on the bum frame.
Next job will be to paint the interior panels, but first I have to replace the wooden panels with some waterproof ones and then I can paint the panels.
Also the dashboard is finished. I was a bit in doubt if I would repad the whole thing, but this was not necessary. There where only 2 small cracks which I repaired (stop-drilled, filled up and painted) so I decided not to repad it. A repaired and painted fresh almost new dash (the holes will be covered by the radio):
And cleaned up the rear axle and applied the first three layers of paint (1st & 2nd RX5, 3rd 50% RX5 – 50% RX10, next layer 5% RX5 – 95% RX10):
And cleaning out the interior radiator, lots of sludge came out! The thing looks overall very good, possibly I’ll send it to a radiator shop for a check up.
And after some polishing (still have to finish it)
And all the bolts, nuts and brackets are nickle plated, looks very good! The only setback is that all this stuff is in 1 box now, and I have to find out where all these bolts and nuts came from LOL ;). So lots of work to do! Luckily I made loads of pictures.
My girlfriend and cat helping me out 😉
I’m finished with scraping of the interior! But man, what a bitch this coating on the seams. And at 2 or 3 places I found a little bit of rust behind the coating, again some ticking time bombs, I hate bombs :(.
I’ll see if maybe it’s better to use something else to cover the seams again when the car is sand blasted.
But with the help of a small blowtorch (watch out of not putting too much heat in the metal of the car!) and again, some patience, I got it almost all removed from the interior (trunk, engine bay and interior), I hope it’s good enough for the sand blasting guys. Next is the lower side of the old diva! :). The lower side is really going to be a LOT of work. Maybe I can trick some friends with a case of beer and a BBQ to help me a day or so ;). When the car is painted again I’m not going to use Tectyl again, I want to use something like Dinitrol. This because dinitrol is transparent and this way you can see if there are rusty spots forming over time. With Tectyl you cannot see this. I guess Dinitrol is not as tough as Tectyl, so it provides less protection, but at least you can still see the metal. But these are all far, far away future plans :).
Cleaned up the inside.
A strange weld at the front. I guess I’m gonna find some more repairs at the lower side of the car, but it would be strange if I wouldn’t find any repairs on a 47 year old car.
I’m beginning to know all of the car this way ;).
In the process of disassembling the car I found that this 1800S has multiple ID tags, but i’m not sure what they all mean.
VIN number in the RH aft side (ALF = aft looking forward) of the engine bay:
This is the body number. Apparently, this is a manufacture sequence number to help construction of vehicle. Other parts on the car may also have this number written or stamped on the vehicle. But I’m not sure what this means in a practical way. It’s stamped on a plate which is fitted in the LH aft side of the engine bay (see first picture). I’ts almost the same as the VIN number.
ID tag in the LH aft side of the engine bay with info about type, colour and upholstery (colour of seats, carpet etc.).
I also found this tag which is fitted behind the backseat, but I have no idea what the number, SV021769, means. Again in kind of looks like a VIN number, but I have no idea what the relation with this number to the actual VIN number of the car would be. It’s also not mentioned in the image with the ID tags below.
I had sent an email to Volvo Sweden to check if they had more info about my car, and today I got a reaction:
First removed the windscreens and then the ceiling. The ceiling I removed with the help of my brother, this was quite the painstaking job, as the ceiling will damage very easy. The wood all around is 47 years old and consists of 2 layers of fine wood, this because it has to be flexible to fit in the curves of the roof. Between the two layers of wood, there is a fine layer of glue. This glue has been deteriorated after 47 years of service and can easily let go of the wood is forced into bends too much. Luckily we removed it almost completely intact. The ceiling does need some attention, because it is a bit dusty and old. Maybe treat the wood with some sort of wood-dye and paint the ceiling? I still have to find out how to do this. Again, luckily there is lots of info to be found on the web about this.
The windscreens where also an easy job. We just found some more small rusty spots hiding behind the windscreen rubbers. Again a good indication that this is the right time to restore the car! Next time I will make a summary of the rusty spots wich are now visible.
The sunshades are also worn. I read some articles about how to restore them. Apparently you can cut them open and fill them with some sort of foam wich will harden up. This way you can give the sunshades their original form back again. Also see: http://volvo1800s.up2dateprojecten.nl/restauratie/zonnekleppen-ontroesten/
Here you can see a small damage, the wood has cracked a bit. Not a big problem I guess.
I removed the dash and labeled the wire loom, quite a job! The wire loom still has to be removed from the car, this is a bit difficult due to the small hole in the firewall through wich the loom has to be pulled. The wire loom I have to reproduce as it has been worn a bit at some places. This also will be a hell of a job, as I do not have this much experience in wiring.
I made some more room, the stripping process is going pretty fast as it is a not very difficult job. The most important thing is to make pictures and label everything. Removing the engine will be easy with this much space in the engine bay. I also did some labeling of the main wire loom.
Removed the fuel tank. No rust to be found here.
The doors are also stripped and removed. No rust to be found here.
Due to a tip on http://www.volvokv.nl I read that the shock towers of the front suspension are prone to cracking with higher mileages. I found that this car has allready been repaired, some welds are visible along with an extra reinforced piece of metal on top of the towers. Thats a good thing! But also a bit questionable. The ODO counter registered some 70.000 miles, do these shock towers crack at this mileage? Will the mistery unfold someday? Who knows..
I started to disassemble the car, as the car has to be stripped completely to get it sand blasted and painted. I removed some parts under the hood (and the hood itself) to prepare for engine and transmission removal. I also removed some parts from the exterior (chrome strips, grille, bumpers, rear and front lights etc) and interior and making lots of pictures in the process, as all this has also have to be put together again, some day.
The car in my small garage.
I put it on stands, looks kinda like a spaceship from Star Wars now.