You have to be a very good, and usually very dead person to become a saint. And more importantly, you need to work three miracles. Now, get to work.

Time has come for another update. So I’ve come to the conclusion that this restoration thing is going awesomely slow if you would compare it to this high speed maniacal world where everything needs to be done by yesterday. I always thought that when I would do a restoration, I could do it way more faster than all these suckers who are working on a car for five years or so ;). But, I’m now somewhere halfway the restoration (I think!) and it has cost me already 1,5 years to get this far so I guess am as slow as everyone else :D. With your nose on the facts as mr. van Gaal would say. But, on the bright side, I’m still having fun with this restoration (set aside some medium mental breakdowns when stuff does not want to go the way I want it to go, but these ‘incidents’ do not tend to last very long luckily).

All in all I’m am doing my best and although I’m progressing not very fast, I work at a steady pace, almost everyday doing something. And I finally found someone who can weld and do sheetmetalwork! And this guy also knows a good painter, so good things. I’ve been searching for more than 6 months so I am pretty excited that the most important work finally can start. In something like a month we will bring the car to this guy’s workshop so he can start working on the car (when he is finished with a Jaguar and a Porsche, nice guys always finish last 😉 ).

So I´ve decided the color of the car will be red. It´s maybe not the best color for such a classic car, as grey, green or white would fit the car better I guess, but red is just such a nice color IMHO. Volvo used two kinds or red color on 1800´s, color code #70 on early P1800´s of 1961 – 1962 and code #46 on 1800’s from 1963 until 1973.  As I would like to keep things fairly original, I should use #46 as this is the red which was used on a 1967 1800S, but I’m not completely sure which I like more. So I need to think about that.

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For example, a car painted in #70 (above) and #46 (below):

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As you can see it is a bit difficult to show the correct color on a picture on a computer. I think the early #70 is a bit more ‘firetruck red’ than the #46, but I’m not sure. Best would be if I could see the color in real life. But even then I guess you would not be certain if it would be the correct color Volvo used as most cars have had a respray in their years. Lots of info about the Volvo colors can be read at: http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/general/volvo-color-codes/. A great website with lots of Volvo info, check it out!

Last moth I’ve did some work on the interior and as I decided the color of the car will be red, I am going with the red-black exterior-interior combination, like this:

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http://volvo1800pictures.com/main/main_gallery_1800S_67_php.php

So, red exterior, black seats and panels and red carpet. The coulor combination I like the most! Searching for a nice 2nd hand, not rotten away black 1800s interior would not going to be an easy find. Impossible I found out later on. I also checked out of curiosity what it would cost if you would buy it all new, this would be around €2500. Not an option for my financial situation, to put it mildly ;). So, after some searching on the net I found some people who painted their seats with leatherpaint with pretty good results and a good price – quality. So I painted the interior black for approximately €40:

I guess he likes brown

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First some repairs and clean everything thoroughly. My seats are in good condition so no heavy tears or worn out cushions, perfect to be painted.

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Then the paint. It dries pretty quickly.

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The seat support and brackets are powedercoated and all nuts, bolts and seat rails are nickle-plated so all shiny new now. I’m assembling the seats as we speak. Well, not now as I am typing these words, but previously ehh, well, you know what I mean.

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I had to tap the threads of the 5/16 nuts in the seat bottom base, which were accidentally powdercoated, and gluing the covers on the bum frame.

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Next job will be to paint the interior panels, but first I have to replace the wooden panels with some waterproof ones and then I can paint the panels.

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Also the dashboard is finished. I was a bit in doubt if I would repad the whole thing, but this was not necessary. There where only 2 small cracks which I repaired (stop-drilled, filled up and painted) so I decided not to repad it. A repaired and painted fresh almost new dash (the holes will be covered by the radio):

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And cleaned up the rear axle and applied the first three layers of paint (1st & 2nd RX5, 3rd 50% RX5 – 50% RX10, next layer 5% RX5 – 95% RX10):

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And cleaning out the interior radiator, lots of sludge came out! The thing looks overall very good, possibly I’ll send it to a radiator shop for a check up.

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And after some polishing (still have to finish it)

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And all the bolts, nuts and brackets are nickle plated, looks very good! The only setback is that all this stuff is in 1 box now, and I have to find out where all these bolts and nuts came from LOL ;). So lots of work to do! Luckily I made loads of pictures.

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My girlfriend and cat helping me out 😉

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Wrecked a drum

As I am disassembling all parts of the suspension for cleaning and painting, the rear axle was next: removing the drums, brakes, bearings and check the spicer gears.

As the axle is loose from the car and sometimes extreme forces are necessary to remove the drums, it’s a bit difficult to counter the force to tighten the drum puller. But, I bought a almost 100% copy of the original Volvo puller which I thought would have to do the trick.DSC_0788.

It worked ok, but it was just too tight. I used a 1,5m long pipe on the wrench, and for several days, heated the drum, banged it with the BFH (big facking hammer) I have, but no help, it did not bulge. At some time during the rampage the drum began to tear apart…

Then, as I allready wrecked the drum, I used a large Kukko puller and this did the trick. Installed the puller again, Heated it up again, and threw a bucket of cool water over the thing. A minute later there was a big BANG like a gunshot and finally it was loose! Victory was mine! Until I realized that this was only the right side………….

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BUT, the left hand side came of in like a half an hour of pulling. That was a big relief. It suggests that the RH side really was friggin stuck on the axle. But now I finally can continue with disassembling of the rear axle.

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Disassembled and cleaned rear axle, placed upside down to fully drain the oil

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Also started with the fuel tank

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And out comes an almost new fuel tank!

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I also did another small fun job, I cleaned up the oil pressure transmitter.

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A piece of art

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Dash and wire loom

I removed the dash and labeled the wire loom, quite a job! The wire loom still has to be removed from the car, this is a bit difficult due to the small hole in the firewall through wich the loom has to be pulled. The wire loom I have to reproduce as it has been worn a bit at some places. This also will be a hell of a job, as I do not have this much experience in wiring.

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Removed some more parts

I made some more room, the stripping process is going pretty fast as it is a not very difficult job. The most important thing is to make pictures and label everything. Removing the engine will be easy with this much space in the engine bay. I also did some labeling of the main wire loom.

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Removed the fuel tank. No rust to be found here.

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The doors are also stripped and removed. No rust to be found here.

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Due to a tip on http://www.volvokv.nl I read that the shock towers of the front suspension are prone to cracking with higher mileages. I found that this car has allready been repaired, some welds are visible along with an extra reinforced piece of metal on top of the towers. Thats a good thing! But also a bit questionable. The ODO counter registered some 70.000 miles, do these shock towers crack at this mileage? Will the mistery unfold someday? Who knows..

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