Truly Saintworthy

While sanding down the car the dust gives a nice effect with the sunlight, I feel the Saint in my presence (and a big fat layer of dust everywhere) ;).

DSC_3538

Recently the guy who is going to do the sheet metal work and welding came over and we made a plan of action. I will sand down the car to bare metal as much as possible and in a couple of weeks I will bring the car over to him. First thing then is sand blasting the car inside out and after that he he will start with the repair off all the bad spots and do some modifications. When that has finished, the car will go to the paint shop. Unfortunately he could see some bad rusty spots of which I thought would be not much of a problem, so there will be some major cutting and welding. But hey, that’s the whole idea of this resto ;).

DSC_3527 DSC_3544

Sanding down the filler is a pain in the ass, it takes pretty much effort to sand it away until metal will show. At the right front fender I found some damages buried below a thick layer of filler, maybe a new panel is needed here.

DSC_3529

And I glued the two patches of leather (which I painted) on the second seat bottom frame, quite a time consuming job. Now wait a while for the glue to dry and I can put the seats completely back together. Possibly I will paint another layer of black leatherpaint on the patches, because they got damaged a bit during the gluing.

DSC_3533 DSC_3532DSC_3537

Collateral damage

So I was planning to do lots of work on the 1800 this weekend when my girl called and said she was having problems with her car and parked it on the side of the highway. She could put it in gear, but the car could almost not pull up, so probably the clutch was shot..

So, pulled the gearbox of the 106 and found a good worn out clutch, luckily not a broken tranny. Put in a new clutch, drive shaft seals, new clutch bearing guide and new oil, all works OK again now.

DSC_3450(1) DSC_3455 DSC_3464 DSC_3482

The frenchie also needed some attention due some other overdue maintenance so did that as well.

DSC_3485

Also already a while ago, but I bought a new car for myself, a ’97 940 low pressure turbo IC. I had some problems with the seller (they would do some overdue maintenance as they said they would do but did not do it after all, and as a grande finale, afterwards it appeared that they drove 460 KM with my car when they had it at their shop…), but that’s over now. I build in some nice extra’s; cruise control, engine- and interior heater, courtesy light, voltmeter in the dash, dashcam, MBC (set at 0.5 bar, I could go higher but for now it’s enough), original ‘in dash’ HPT boost gauge and an extra boost gauge (to see how much boost there exactly is as the original gauge does not have increments), also installed a rear spoiler and had it sprayed in grey together with the mirrors. I’m still looking for leather seats (with electric adjustable seats). I’ts a good car and it drives excellent.

DSC_3108DSC_3106(1)DSC_1441DSC_1442DSC_1450DSC_1928DSC_2024DSC_2031(1)DSC_2016(1)DSC_2033

And as always, my cat is keeping a sharp lookout 😀

DSC_2106

You have to be a very good, and usually very dead person to become a saint. And more importantly, you need to work three miracles. Now, get to work.

Time has come for another update. So I’ve come to the conclusion that this restoration thing is going awesomely slow if you would compare it to this high speed maniacal world where everything needs to be done by yesterday. I always thought that when I would do a restoration, I could do it way more faster than all these suckers who are working on a car for five years or so ;). But, I’m now somewhere halfway the restoration (I think!) and it has cost me already 1,5 years to get this far so I guess am as slow as everyone else :D. With your nose on the facts as mr. van Gaal would say. But, on the bright side, I’m still having fun with this restoration (set aside some medium mental breakdowns when stuff does not want to go the way I want it to go, but these ‘incidents’ do not tend to last very long luckily).

All in all I’m am doing my best and although I’m progressing not very fast, I work at a steady pace, almost everyday doing something. And I finally found someone who can weld and do sheetmetalwork! And this guy also knows a good painter, so good things. I’ve been searching for more than 6 months so I am pretty excited that the most important work finally can start. In something like a month we will bring the car to this guy’s workshop so he can start working on the car (when he is finished with a Jaguar and a Porsche, nice guys always finish last 😉 ).

So I´ve decided the color of the car will be red. It´s maybe not the best color for such a classic car, as grey, green or white would fit the car better I guess, but red is just such a nice color IMHO. Volvo used two kinds or red color on 1800´s, color code #70 on early P1800´s of 1961 – 1962 and code #46 on 1800’s from 1963 until 1973.  As I would like to keep things fairly original, I should use #46 as this is the red which was used on a 1967 1800S, but I’m not completely sure which I like more. So I need to think about that.

Volvo_P1800_61_70_8511_1Volvo_paint_color_code_70_Red_P1800_Jensen

For example, a car painted in #70 (above) and #46 (below):

Volvo_paint_color_code_46_Cherry_red

Volvo_1800S_67_46_2593_1

As you can see it is a bit difficult to show the correct color on a picture on a computer. I think the early #70 is a bit more ‘firetruck red’ than the #46, but I’m not sure. Best would be if I could see the color in real life. But even then I guess you would not be certain if it would be the correct color Volvo used as most cars have had a respray in their years. Lots of info about the Volvo colors can be read at: http://www.volvotips.com/index.php/general/volvo-color-codes/. A great website with lots of Volvo info, check it out!

Last moth I’ve did some work on the interior and as I decided the color of the car will be red, I am going with the red-black exterior-interior combination, like this:

Volvo_1800S_67_46_0692_4

http://volvo1800pictures.com/main/main_gallery_1800S_67_php.php

So, red exterior, black seats and panels and red carpet. The coulor combination I like the most! Searching for a nice 2nd hand, not rotten away black 1800s interior would not going to be an easy find. Impossible I found out later on. I also checked out of curiosity what it would cost if you would buy it all new, this would be around €2500. Not an option for my financial situation, to put it mildly ;). So, after some searching on the net I found some people who painted their seats with leatherpaint with pretty good results and a good price – quality. So I painted the interior black for approximately €40:

I guess he likes brown

DSC_2715 (Medium)

First some repairs and clean everything thoroughly. My seats are in good condition so no heavy tears or worn out cushions, perfect to be painted.

DSC_2792 (Medium)

Then the paint. It dries pretty quickly.

DSC_3111 (Medium) DSC_3115 (Medium) DSC_3125 (Medium) DSC_3127 (Medium) DSC_3181 (Medium) DSC_3186 (Medium) DSC_3228 (Medium)

The seat support and brackets are powedercoated and all nuts, bolts and seat rails are nickle-plated so all shiny new now. I’m assembling the seats as we speak. Well, not now as I am typing these words, but previously ehh, well, you know what I mean.

DSC_3261 (Medium) DSC_3267 (Medium) DSC_3269 (Medium) DSC_3271 (Medium)DSC_3305

I had to tap the threads of the 5/16 nuts in the seat bottom base, which were accidentally powdercoated, and gluing the covers on the bum frame.

DSC_3505

Next job will be to paint the interior panels, but first I have to replace the wooden panels with some waterproof ones and then I can paint the panels.

DSC_3349

Also the dashboard is finished. I was a bit in doubt if I would repad the whole thing, but this was not necessary. There where only 2 small cracks which I repaired (stop-drilled, filled up and painted) so I decided not to repad it. A repaired and painted fresh almost new dash (the holes will be covered by the radio):

DSC_2788 (Medium)

DSC_3216 (Medium)

DSC_3220 (Medium)

And cleaned up the rear axle and applied the first three layers of paint (1st & 2nd RX5, 3rd 50% RX5 – 50% RX10, next layer 5% RX5 – 95% RX10):

DSC_3242 (Medium)DSC_3394DSC_3398DSC_3399

And cleaning out the interior radiator, lots of sludge came out! The thing looks overall very good, possibly I’ll send it to a radiator shop for a check up.

DSC_3384DSC_3353

And after some polishing (still have to finish it)

DSC_3413

And all the bolts, nuts and brackets are nickle plated, looks very good! The only setback is that all this stuff is in 1 box now, and I have to find out where all these bolts and nuts came from LOL ;). So lots of work to do! Luckily I made loads of pictures.

DSC_3133 (Medium)DSC_3215 (Medium)DSC_3231 (Medium)DSC_3325DSC_3326DSC_3435DSC_3268DSC_3371

My girlfriend and cat helping me out 😉

DSC_3211 (Medium)

Parts painted

Picked up a lot of parts which are powder-coated, all looks really nice! I can almost start with piecing together the front and rear suspension. I still need to sinc plate all the bolts (I’m cleaning them now), nuts and rings, need to find some PU bushings and paint the rear axle (with RX5 –> RX10).

DSC_2574 (Medium) DSC_2575 (Medium)

And again dropped off some other of the last parts which also need to be painted.

DSC_2573 (Medium)

Subframe repaired

We repaired the subframe and it’s now ready for powder coating.

Cut out the damaged top parts of the shock towers3 (Medium)

DSC_2358 (Medium)

Test fit with piece of cardboard and then cut a piece of metal to fit in the gap, spot weld and if ok weld all around. We also fitted some extra rings on top of the towers for extra strength, probably not necessary but what the heck. My father is an excellent welder so this repair will last for another 50 years. Also the repair is solid enough to be able to withstand (if my girlfriend gives an ‘ok’ for the financial part) the (apparently) stiff bilstien shocks.

5 (Medium) 6 (Medium) 7 (Medium) 8 (Medium) 9 (Medium) 10 (Medium) 11 (Medium) 12 (Medium)

Done. Also made some extra welds, the factory spot welds do not seem very strong, and added a towing eye (hopefully NOT to be used in the future..).

13 (Medium) 14 (Medium)

The welds of the lower braces are still ok, no repairing required.

15 (Medium) 16 (Medium)

Now that the subframe is ready I dropped off all the parts in need of new paint at the powdercoating guys (Waayenberg Coatings). Subframe will be coated RAL7040, pully and cooling fan RAL1004 and the rest just normal black.

DSC_2373 (Medium)

I also started sanding down the car, hopefully the painter will be coming over soon so we can discuss the plan of action!

DSC_2367 (Medium)

My 945 and my fathers V70.

DSC_2224 (Medium)

And last but not least I installed an MBC in my 945 😉

DSC_2259 (Medium)

Fuel tank looking good

The fuel tank cleaned up and looking good. Just needs new paint. Even the internals look very good, no rust. I had the intention to re-seal the inside of the fuel tank, but it is so clean, I guess that’s not necessary.

DSC_1112 (Small)DSC_1111 (Small)DSC_1108 (Small)

Fuel tank sender is lookin less good. Resistance is jumping around when moving the float and does not de- or increase fluently (which explains the bouncing around of the fuel gauge). The resistance has to be in between 5-10 Ohm (empty) and 180-205 Ohm (full) (If I’m correct). Think I’m just going to put a new one in, they are not that expensive.

DSC_1102 (Small) DSC_1103 (Small)

Classic Volvo exhibition in Rosmalen, the Netherlands

It’s already a few weeks ago, but me and my gal (she likes Volvo’s and knows all the different types, I am so lucky!) went to the Volvo Beurs in Rosmalen, what fun to see some beautiful Volvo’s at this exhibition. Especially the P1800 / S / E / ES section, it was good for the motivation to see some 1800’s in driving condition (other than the 1800 which lies in 20.000 pieces in my garage). Also, the parking lot was divided into sections, you had to park by type and parking was free if you’d have a Volvo! 😀

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA  OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Nice!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Looks exactly like my old Turbo!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Wrecked a drum

As I am disassembling all parts of the suspension for cleaning and painting, the rear axle was next: removing the drums, brakes, bearings and check the spicer gears.

As the axle is loose from the car and sometimes extreme forces are necessary to remove the drums, it’s a bit difficult to counter the force to tighten the drum puller. But, I bought a almost 100% copy of the original Volvo puller which I thought would have to do the trick.DSC_0788.

It worked ok, but it was just too tight. I used a 1,5m long pipe on the wrench, and for several days, heated the drum, banged it with the BFH (big facking hammer) I have, but no help, it did not bulge. At some time during the rampage the drum began to tear apart…

Then, as I allready wrecked the drum, I used a large Kukko puller and this did the trick. Installed the puller again, Heated it up again, and threw a bucket of cool water over the thing. A minute later there was a big BANG like a gunshot and finally it was loose! Victory was mine! Until I realized that this was only the right side………….

DSC_0883

BUT, the left hand side came of in like a half an hour of pulling. That was a big relief. It suggests that the RH side really was friggin stuck on the axle. But now I finally can continue with disassembling of the rear axle.

DSC_1023 (Small)DSC_1041 (Small)

Disassembled and cleaned rear axle, placed upside down to fully drain the oil

DSC_1074 (Small)

Also started with the fuel tank

DSC_1068 (Small)

And out comes an almost new fuel tank!

DSC_1072 (Small)

I also did another small fun job, I cleaned up the oil pressure transmitter.

DSC_0995DSC_1001

A piece of art

DSC_1011 DSC_1013

Placed the car on the stand and removed front suspension & rear axle

Placed the car on the stand (which I had to lower 25 cm) and removed the front suspension and rear axle, a pretty easy job like this. Next step is to get some chemical paint stripper that works on 2K paint (synthetic paint) or skip that and let the sand blaster do the rest. Good paint stripper is very costly and bad for you’re health if you’re not using the right precautions. Decisions, decisions.. 😉

The car on its stand.

1

2 (Medium)

Rear axle removed. It will need new paint, brake lines, handbrake cables, new bushings, new brake cilinders, brake shoes, new springs, new shock absorbers etc etc. I will get to this when the car is away for blasting and painting.

DSC_0656

DSC_06605 (Medium)

Front suspension removed.

DSC_0684 (Medium)

The battered and dirty front suspension; needs new bushings, all needs to be painted or powdercoated, clean or replace brake calipers, replace brake discs and pads, new brake lines, new engine mounts, new springs & shock absorbers, weld on a tow eye on the subframe and possibly reweld the shock towers (check for cracking).

DSC_0688 (Medium)