As I am disassembling all parts of the suspension for cleaning and painting, the rear axle was next: removing the drums, brakes, bearings and check the spicer gears.
As the axle is loose from the car and sometimes extreme forces are necessary to remove the drums, it’s a bit difficult to counter the force to tighten the drum puller.
It was just too tight. I used a 1,5m long pipe on the wrench, and for several days, heated the drum, banged it with a hammer, but no help. At some time during the rampage the drum began to tear apart…
Then, as I allready wrecked the drum, I used a large Kukko puller and this did the trick. Installed the puller again, Heated it up again, and threw a bucket of cool water over the thing. A minute later there was a big BANG and finally it was gave way. The other side came of pretty easy.
Disassembled and cleaned rear axle
Also started with the fuel tank
And out comes an almost new fuel tank
Cleaning up the oil pressure transmitter
A piece of art
I disassembled the front suspension. It all looks structurally ok, no heavy corroded pieces, just some superficial corrosion here and there.
Shock towers where repaired in the past
You can see why they repaired it… I think I’m going to redo the repairs to make sure there no rusty stuff in between the shock tower and the repair plate.
Placed the car on the stand and removed the front suspension and rear axle, a pretty easy job like this. Next step is to get some chemical paint stripper that works on 2K paint or skip that and let the sand blaster do the rest.
The car on its stand.
Rear axle removed. It will need new paint, brake lines, handbrake cables, new bushings, new brake cilinders, brake shoes, new springs, new shock absorbers etc etc. I will get to this when the car is away for blasting and painting.
Front suspension removed.
The battered and dirty front suspension; needs new bushings, all needs to be painted or powdercoated, clean or replace brake calipers, replace brake discs and pads, new brake lines, new engine mounts, new springs & shock absorbers, weld on a tow eye on the subframe and possibly reweld the shock towers (check for cracking).
Received the weels I ordered from http://www.volvoklassiekerswebshop.nl/
I am almost done with scraping tectyl off of the car, what a mess. Soon the car will go to a bodyshop. Also flipped the car onto it´s other side to do some last pieces of scraping.
I’m making some progress in the tectyl scraping business, think I’m now halfway there.
A weird sight seeing the Volvo on it’s side
And I ordered these wheels!
The stand has been rewelded.
Much better working like this.
Also visited my uncle who is restoring a Nekaf M38a1 Jeep. Cool project.
Also available with an anti tank cannon.
Started cleaning the lower side of the body with a heat blower it comes off oke, but it’s time consuming and messy.
This took about 30 mins, I did some more but still lots to do.
I placed the car in the restoration stand and it works. It´s a very basic rotisserie and it was originally built to fit an Amazon, but a 1800S is almost the same so it was an almost direct fit. The car is now back on its wheels again because the stand needs to be strengthened.
Just enough ground clearance.
I have this sitting in my bookshelf for a long time now and I rediscovered it again. It is a compilation written by one of my favorite (dutch) writers: Martin Bril. Sadly, he died in 2009 which makes it a bit more special. It’s written in Dutch, so this probably won’t be very interesting for international visitors visiting this site.
Martin Bril liked and drove Volvo’s. He wrote some nice columns mentioning these cars over the years and these columns where collected and put together in this book.
Dear Martin, I hope you are still driving you’re Volvo wherever you may be.